What a blur. I can’t believe its November already.

Amman. A city built on seven hills. (Jebel=hill). Oddly enough, the largest and most majestic building in the city is the US Embassy built on a relatively flat area. I take that back, its more like a fortress. I would have taken a picture but they might have taken my head.
Amman is kind of weird. Since its built on so many hills, the roads aren’t exactly that efficiently paved. Up and down up and down we go just to get across the city. Other times its left and right left and right only to have netted a distance of maybe a mile. However, it does produce many great views of the city scape. The city is very liberal by Arab standards with many women wearing jeans and a clubbing style shirt. Alcohol is not difficult to buy and even some kids are wearing shorts outside. Yet still, prayers are played loud through the loudspeakers (things don’t go to a halt though), men and women are still very separated, and women in burka’s can still be found. What’s odd about it is the way the traditional and the new mix into this weird dynamic where men and women talk… but they are always awkwardly clustered like a 5th grade dance. The population of wealthy Iraqi’s are astounding and I can tell that native Jordanians probably hate them.

The Roman's left their mark everywhere. Just below the Citadel sat pretty intact Roman amphitheater.
At the center of Amman sits the Citadel. Up there palace ruins, a Byzantine church, a mosque and a Temple of Hercules sit together in great harmony. Actually its weird to see all the different architecture together. A huge cistern capable of holding 250,000 gallons of water and a number of birs (wells) meant that somehow there was a lot of water on top of this hill way back in the day. The Temple of Hercules is larger than any temple in Rome and must have been grand back in the day. It is around here that Uriah the Hittite died after being sent to the front lines against the Ammonites (like Amman). I’m surprised there wasn’t a tourist spot with a sign that pointed to a mound of dirt signifying Uriah’s battlefield grave.

The Citadel at night can be pretty even though the dust in the air makes for a horribly gray and nasty looking sunset. I walked to the Citadel my last night in Amman but the place was closed. The guy let me in any way... for a small fee of course. Ha. Gotta love business outside of the west.
Amman is not an exciting city really. The real jewels are of course in Petra. I did have the best humus of my life. Makes me wonder what I’m eating here because in comparison the stuff here tastes like sawdust. I went to a few mosques and even went inside a few. You would never know that many mosques in some places of the world are havens for terror. Wasted beauty.
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King Abdullah II has his face (sometimes with his beautiful wife) plastered all over the country, but his father left a legacy of fancy cars. On loan, the 1001 horsepower Bugatti. It is freaking WIDE. Behind that is a Mercedes SLR McLaren and behind that... at Ferrari California. All three are on loan by the manufacturer to spice up a very very nice classic car collection. Speaking of cars, one of my most vivid memories of Amman is my driver yelling MUSHKELAH every time a woman was driving a car. Mushkelah means problem in arabic.
- King Hussein left his son a country in a rock and hard place. That rock is Israel and the hard place is every country around it. It gave most of its land up for the creation of Israel and still claims much of the west bank to this day. The west calls him a hero for his work after WWII yet many neighboring countries hate him for being a tool of the west. Now his son inherits just a mess of foreign policy. It is very easy to see why many Arabs hate Israel and the Zionist movement. More on this later… like in a month… later…
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Travel with a partner, its safer. And you get to sit around and not be awkward. Or be an adventurer and travel alone. It's literally an adventure at every turn.
Traveling alone in a country is really interesting. It’s hard because there is no economy of scale, yet the possibility of having a lot of fun increases (echoed by a backpacker I met). The reason being that there is nothing holding you back from making whim decisions and spicing up a trip by killing what was planned. Requires a lot of independence though… there are times of awkward solitude and a very little backup when mistakes happen. Safety is also a concern (well not in Jordan, its safer than DC. Much safer) but looking super confused, lost, and any sign of weakness is probably a good indication that you are a good target to rip off. It’s not for everyone. Helps to be male…
- More later…






